Before you call.

Timing depends on the parcel, project scope and reviewing agencies. County or municipal review may be only one part; state and federal approvals can add time. We outline the likely path after the site and proposed work are known.

Watch for slower lifting speeds, unusual noises, cable deterioration, visible corrosion or uneven lifting. Saltwater, humidity and UV accelerate wear. A professional assessment tells you whether a repair or an upgrade makes more sense — and regular inspections catch these problems early.

It depends on your vessel's weight, length, beam and how you use it. We recommend a capacity at least 20–25% above the boat's fully loaded weight. Our specialists also evaluate water depth, dock configuration and tide variations before recommending a lift.

Standard installations take 1–3 days depending on the model, dock structure and site conditions. Jobs that need new pilings, electrical work or special permitting take longer — we tell you up front.

Look for visible cracks, leaning sections, soil erosion behind the wall, sinkholes near the shoreline or water seeping through. Any of these means it is time for an inspection. Caught early, many seawalls can be repaired rather than replaced.

We build with premium marine-grade materials, including WEARDECK and AZEK composite decking. Composite costs more up front and gives it back in maintenance — no annual sealing, no splinters, and it holds its color in Florida sun. We will price the options side by side so you can choose rather than guess.

Yes. Most of our repair work is on structures somebody else built. We will tell you honestly whether a repair makes sense or whether you are better off putting the money toward a rebuild.

Seawall permitting can involve county or municipal review plus state submerged-lands and, in some locations, federal review. Timing and construction scheduling are confirmed after the parcel and proposed scope are known.

A living seawall uses textured panels that encourage oysters, barnacles and marine growth to colonise the face of the wall. That growth dissipates wave energy and supports water quality, so the wall does its structural job while working with the shoreline instead of against it. We install Kind Designs living seawalls.

No. The crew that drives your pilings and builds your structure is Mariner's. Our electrical is done under our own license, EC13015118, rather than handed to an outside contractor.

Mariner can coordinate the permit path as part of the project. The responsible agencies and timing depend on the parcel and scope, and the written proposal should define what is included.

Every component we install carries its manufacturer's warranty, and Mariner adds a one-year labor warranty on top of it.

Usually, yes. Matching decking, railing profile and piling spacing to an adjacent structure is straightforward if the materials are still available. Where they are not, we will show you the closest current equivalent before ordering anything.

It depends on length, piling count, decking material and how difficult the site is to reach — which is why a per-foot number would be wrong for many properties. Request a written proposal that defines the scope and priced options for your site.

Yes. Covered slips and boathouses are engineered for wind load the same way the dock below them is, and in most jurisdictions they need their own permitting — which we handle.

Call or text (941) 751-3625 and describe the location and immediate hazard. Response time depends on storm conditions, access, crew availability and the number of unsafe structures reported.

Mariner can inspect the damaged structure and prepare a repair or replacement estimate. Ask what photographs, measurements or supporting documents are available for the specific assessment. Coverage questions belong with your agent.

Yes — a hinged gangway from the fixed structure or the seawall cap to the float is the usual arrangement. The gangway length is driven by your tide range; too short and it becomes steep at low water.

They ride rising water, which is an advantage in surge, but they depend entirely on the guide piles holding. We size those piles for storm conditions rather than everyday loads, and we will tell you what to do with the float ahead of a named storm.

A drive-on platform is simpler, has no motor and nothing to service, and suits most residential canals. A lift makes more sense where water depth is too shallow for a clean run-on approach, or where you want the craft higher for storm season. We will tell you which your site suits.

Yes. We hold an electrical license (EC13015118), so the wiring, outlets and fixtures are all handled by us rather than split between a dock company and an electrician who has never worked over water.

The jacket itself is fibreglass and does not rot or corrode, and the grout surround protects the original pile from further borer and oxygen exposure. Properly installed, it is a long-term structural repair rather than a patch — but it depends on there being sound material to bond to, which is what the inspection determines.

Almost always, because replacing a pile under an existing dock means dismantling the structure above it. The comparison we will give you is the honest one: jacket cost now versus what a pile replacement would cost if the deterioration is too far along.

Often, yes — but only if the structure and pilings will carry the load. That is the first thing we check, and if the existing pilings will not take it we will tell you what driving new ones adds rather than quietly bolting to something that will not hold.

Usually — an elevator platform lifts the hull straight up on a much smaller vertical envelope than a cradle needs, which is what makes low-clearance installs possible. We measure the actual clearance at high water before committing to a design.

For most cable, motor and bunk work, yes. Structural repairs and full replacements need the boat off — we will tell you which you are facing before we start, not once the crew is on site.

It depends on cycles, exposure and how well the drums and sheaves are maintained, so there is no single interval that is honest for every lift. What we can say is that cables show their condition well before they part, which is why they are checked on every VIP Service Club visit.

Usually — PWC lifts are far lighter than boat lifts, so existing structures often carry them without modification. We check the framing and pilings first rather than assuming.

Vinyl panel systems are the common choice on residential canals: they do not corrode, they install cleanly and they carry a long service life. Concrete suits higher retained heights and more exposed frontage. Rip-rap is a shoreline treatment rather than a retaining structure and suits properties where the bank can be sloped. We will tell you which your frontage actually calls for.

Yes, and it is often the cleaner job — no demolition, and the design is not constrained by somebody else's decisions. Permitting for a new structure is more involved than repair in kind, so allow for the 4–6 week window.

It can, which is why tie-ins at the property line matter. A wall that ends abruptly at a neighbor's unprotected bank concentrates erosion right at the joint. We detail the ends properly and, where it makes sense, we will talk to the neighbor's contractor.

It depends entirely on whether water is moving through it. A hairline crack in a cap with no soil loss behind it can be monitored. A crack that is passing water is removing your yard on every tide cycle, and that one is not worth waiting on.

Mariner does not interpret coverage or negotiate claims. We can inspect the damaged structure and prepare a contractor estimate; ask what supporting documentation is available when you schedule.

Call or text (941) 751-3625 with the location and immediate hazard. Availability depends on storm conditions, access and crew capacity.

Often the dock connection has to be released and re-tied, but the structure itself can usually stay. We survey how the dock is tied into the wall before quoting, so that work is in the estimate rather than a surprise.

Anything within the work zone comes out. We will be specific at estimate time about what has to go and what we restore, so you can decide what to move yourself and what to plan on replacing.

A general home inspector will look at the house. The seawall is usually outside their scope, and it is often the single most expensive structure on the property. Knowing what condition it is in before closing is worth doing.

The Mariner VIP Service Club includes regularly scheduled inspection visits covering the lift system, the electrical and the property — including the seawall, cap and erosion — with a written photo report after every visit. See the VIP Service Club page for what is included.

Yes — it is engineered to the same retained height and loading as any other wall we install. The texture is on the water-facing surface; the structural design behind it is unchanged.

The panel system generally costs more than standard vinyl. Whether that is worth it depends on your frontage and what you care about; we will price it alongside a conventional wall so the comparison is in front of you.

Usually, both to build and to permit, and it performs well where the bank can be sloped. It takes up more horizontal space than a vertical wall, which is the trade-off on properties where the lawn runs close to the water.

It depends on the expected surge, your lift type and your specific structure — the wrong choice can be worse than doing nothing. Call us and we will tell you what we would do at your property rather than give you generic advice that may not fit it.

Response time depends on conditions, access, crew availability and the number of unsafe structures reported. Call with the property location and immediate risk for current availability.

Yes. Surge does its worst work where you cannot see it — scour around pilings, soil moved out from behind a seawall, connections loosened without visibly failing. The damage that shows up months later usually started during the storm.

Frequently. Corroding hardware that keeps failing is often an electrical symptom rather than a hardware-quality problem, and correcting the install is what actually stops it.

They attract baitfish, and the fish that eat them — which is exactly why people install them. They are a feature of most waterfront properties down here rather than a problem.